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Pterophyllum scalare marble фото

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Breeding Choosing Breeder Angelfish: The best way of assuring yourself at least one young pair is to choose 6 perfect specimens from a large tankful of young angels. This method is less expensive than buying proven breeders that may be near the end of their breeding careers anyway. They should be strong, robust and active. Angelfish that are active feeders mean they will grow quickly, and have a high rate of egg production in the females.

Do not buy fish from a tank with either dead fish in it, with fungus or parasite infestations. Be extremely picky with your breeder selection and you will be rewarded with beautiful fry. Once you have carefully selected your 6 potential breeders, they can be set up in a 20 gallon tank minimum to grow up in and to finally pair off. If they are fed well with a good selection of live foods, they will grow quickly and reach breeder size rapidly.

One sure way to acquire a true breeding pair of Angelfish is to purchase a proven pair from a breeder. When you purchase a pair this way there is always the possibility that they are at the end of their breeding career.

In mature fish, breeding can be stimulated by a partial water change and a rise in temperature to between 80 and 82 degrees F.



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These protuberances which appear at the vent are used respectively for depositing eggs and fertilizing them. The obvious differences in the genital papillae are the first completely reliable indication of sex determination.



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The pair will select a spawning site and thoroughly clean it about two or three days before actual spawning takes place. When the cleanliness of the spawning site finally meets the approval of the parent fish, the female will make a few test runs.

She will pull her ventral fins or feelers close to the lower sides of her abdomen and her anal fin will be situated so that her entire lower line is relatively straight. Her ovipositor will then be able to make full contact with the slate, leaf or whatever was chosen for a spawning site.

The male will then make a few practice runs too before the actual spawning takes place. When spawning actually takes place, the female will pass over the site and eggs are deposited which adhere to the surface. The male and female Angelfish will take turns making passes over the spawning site until several hundred or more eggs have been laid, depending on the size and condition of the female prior to spawning.

The parents will hover closely over the spawn and fan continuously with their pectoral fins to create a circulation of water over and around the eggs. Some unfertilized eggs will turn white in a matter of hours and will be removed by the parents. Angelfish fry have been successfully raised on a diet of newly hatched Brine shrimp napulii for the first 4 weeks of their lives and fed two to four times daily. After that, they were gradually introduced to a mixture of finely powdered Angelfish flakes and powdered dried blood worms with an occasional twice a week feeding of baby brine shrimp.

When their bodies are about the size of a quarter, they may be fed Guppy fry. An easy way to provide this very nutritious food is to keep pregnant guppies in the same tank as the young Angels and the rest is up to nature. Of course feedings of other varied foods are needed to round out the diet.

The author conducted an experiment and got 6 quarter sized Angelfish from a large tank of like sized Angels and put them in a 10 gallon tank with a sponge filter and Water Sprite.

They were free fed guppy fry and twice a day received any combination of Angelfish flakes, frozen bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp and dried dworms for 4 weeks. At the end of the experiment, the 6 who received a varied diet twice a day were almost the size of a half dollar while the size of the other Angelfish barely had any noticeable growth at all.

You can see that the correct diet for your Angels is essential to potential and current breeder fish. Leaving Fry with Parents: If the parents are to be left with the eggs, it is best to provide as much peace and quiet for them as possible.

You may want to set up their tank in your bedroom or a spare room where they will not be unnecessarily disturbed. Other than that, they should be treated as you normally do. Some aquarists cover the tank with paper or black plastic and use peep holes to observe the fish. This can cause more disturbance than without the cover because there is no warning for the fish when the lid is going to be opened for feeding or for any other reason.

The best system for filtering a fry tank is a seeded corner sponge filter. This should be done long before you have to use it so that all you have to do is pop it into the fry tank when the time comes.



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The sponge will begin to discolor when you have the start of your colony. Undergravel filters also work biologically, but are not as convenient to use in this instance. A scrupulously clean aquarium is essential for proper growth and health of your Angel fish fry, but with an undergravel filter, this is almost impossible to do. The water can look crystal clear while the space under the filter can be filthy with uneaten food and fish waste. This in turn causes ammonia build-up which is dangerous or even fatal to fish.

It is obviously very difficult if not impossible to keep a fry tank with an undergravel filter in it perfectly clean. Hatching Eggs Away from Parents: Hatching Eggs Away from Parents Should you decide to remove the eggs after spawning to raise away from the parents, a bare gallon tank with sponge filter and a piece of slate leaned up against a side wall would be the angelfish will use the piece of slate to lay their eggs on making it easy for you to remove the entire spawn.

A restaurant sized pickle or mayonnaise jar submerged into the tank and the slate with the spawn gently transferred into it is the best way to handle the delicate eggs which should be facing upward. An airstone should be placed in the jar in such a way that the somewhat vigorous stream of air bubbles does not hit the eggs directly.

Dechlorinated tap water measuring about ppm hardness or about 5 DH and a pH of about 7. The aeration was vigorous and each day after hatching, one-half the water was replaced with aged tap water of the same temperature. Aeration was slowed after the fry were free swimming. Hatching should occur in about 36 to 48 hours depending on the temperature. If you should see some eggs fall off the slate, you may elect to either pick them up with an eyedropper or turkey baster and squirt them back on the slate or leave them to hatch where they are.

There will be a period after hatching and before free swimming when the fry will stick together. At this time increase the aeration so ALL the fry will have access to sufficient oxygen. Do not put food in the jar until they fry are free swimming.



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After about days when they are free swimming, you may introduce newly hatched brine shrimp into the jar for the fry to eat. Diseases Angelfish are apparantly not as apt to contract the common diseases that other tropical fish are.



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However, I will list some common ailments for your reference. Ichthyophthirius or Ich Otherwise known as "white spot disease" because of the appearance of the encysted adult parasite on infected fish, Ich is caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Angelfish are less susceptible than many other tropicals, but occasionally contract this disease.

Ich goes through three definite stages: First, the adult parasite lives in the skin of the host fish, feeding on the tissue and body fluids of the fish and appears as a white spot; second, the mature parasite leaves the host and falls to the bottom where it divides; third, as many as free-swimming youngsters all seek a host fish that they can attach to.


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This is the stage where most treatments are affective. Higher temperatures will cause the cycle to complete faster so it is suggested that you raise the temperature to around 80 degrees F.

This gives the free-swimming parasites less time to find a host before they die.



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Your favorite pet supply store will have Ich medication on hand. Exophthalmia or Pop-Eye This is one of the more often encountered diseases of angelfish although not common. Pop-eye is a symptom, not a disease and it can have a number of causes. Some are incurable, some can be cured. Some of the causes of this condition are: Not making partial water changes often enough resulting in a build-up of dissolved waste products, infection by a parasitic fungus called Ichthyosporidium.

Other symptoms of this disease, also known as Ichthyophonus, are usually present when it is the cause of Pop-eye. The symptoms are body sores, bloody spots,staggering, black spots,tumors that have erupted, emaciation or scale protrusion, loss of fins.

Usually this is introduced with other fish and is considered incurable. Bacterial infections can also cause Pop-eye and may be treated with 50 mg. Another cause of Pop-eye is otherwise known as "worm cataract disease".



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The eyes bulge and the cornea becomes cloudy because of the invasion of types of flatworms. Once a fish is infected, there is no effective cure.

This parasite is introduced with snails, so wild snails should be avoided. Aquarium snails pose no problem as they are not exposed to water birds who serve as another intermediary host and from which the snails become infected. Hunger Strike Loss of appetite and eventual refusal to eat should not be a problem in a well maintained tank.


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As long as regular partial water changes are made and the general guidelines for cleanliness are followed, this should never happen to you. In case you notice your angelfish going "off their feed", bribe them with live brine shrimp, live guppy fry or any other clean live food.

In no time they will be eating again. Please remember that the following comments are personal experiences and may or may not apply to your setup. Use them as guide to help better understand your fish, like us all individuals will behave differently under different circumstances. But since I was always into large robust cichlids, I always kept myself away from them.

Before getting the marble angelfish from the lfs, I talked to the lfs guy who agreed to take it back if anything goes wrong Even within a few days it started competing with others for food Easily. Has beautiful red eyes, extra zebra stripes than the common zebras and altums, bluish pearscale body and the widefin shines like blue rainbow!! Put him into my tank, again nobody noticed. And yes, it works but Whenever a second angel added things always has and will go downhill.

Also angels do simply great singly From: I have 3 marble veils, 2 koi angels and a silver. Their tankmates are a striped head stander, 3 silver dollars, 2 pictus cats, a gibiceps pleco, 2 albino cherry barbs, 2 gouramis, 1 clown loach and a tri color shark. I keep the PH at 6.






Комментарии

Авторитетный ответ, любопытно...
20.08.2018 10:59
Побольше б таких постов на блоге.
27.08.2018 22:02
всем советую глянуть
30.08.2018 17:22
По моему мнению Вы ошибаетесь. Могу это доказать. Пишите мне в PM.
02.09.2018 01:53

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